Oaxaca :: Day 04

The day started with a visit to Monte Albán, an expansive archaeological site that was one of the earliest cities of Mesoamerica (500 BC) and inhabited for over 1500 years. It was incredible walking the grounds and imagining what it may have been like back in the day. After the ruins, we went to Santa Maria Atzompa for some of the areas famous green pottery. We all picked up some amazing pieces, I can’t stop thinking about all that I wish we could have brought back. It’s so beautiful. We didn’t want to ruin our appetites so had peanut butter sandwiches back at the house before heading back out for dinner — this time at Chef Pilar's private residence. It was incredible. From what I've read, she has even taught Rick Bayless regional Oaxcan cooking. It was a treat. We dined on quesadillas, a lovely squash and corn soup, a special black mole with beef, and chocolate tamales with walnut ice cream. All while sipping on delicious wine, mezcal, beer and a lemongrass agua fresca. Such a special day and evening.

Oaxaca :: Day 03

This was one of those days you look back on and was so amazing you cannot even believe it happened. Unfortunately, Brian woke up not feeling great, but he powered through like no other. The first stop was Tule to see the Árbol de Tule - the stoutest tree trunk in the world, aging between 1400-1600 years old. Next up was Mitla, one of the most important archeological site of the Zapotec culture, featuring well preserved ancient frescos and mosaics. After some wandering the village and lunch, we visited the mezcal capital of Santiago Matatlán and toured Mezcal Marcurichos. It was fascinating to learn about mezcal production and so lovely and serene. Next up was the petrified waterfalls (Hierve el Aqua) - one of just two known petrified waterfalls in the world (the other is in Turkey). The grand finale was a swim in one of the spring fed mineral pools. Basically a natural infinity pool. After picking up some food for takeout, we headed back and had a late night feeding frenzy before going to bed. What a day.

Oaxaca :: Day 02

We all woke up bright and early, so excited to explore the area. One of the best things Chris & Leif, the organizers did, was hire a driver the entire week. Luis was knowledgeable, calm, patient and just a remarkably kind person. Our first destination was the city center. What a vibrant place. The La Guelaguetza festival was going on so in addition to the colorful banners that decorate the streets, they were also lined with statues of regional dancers. We first went to Mercado Benito Juárez, a market filled with clothing, purses, hats, teas, rolls, oil cloth, and tejate, a mexican cocoa drink with dried corn and cocoa beans. I had been really wanting to try it, and our driver guided us to a safe and delicious vendor. I only had it once during our week, but it did not disappoint. Our next market was Mercado 20 de Noviembre, which is where restaurants and grills are. It's crazy, because they are just out in the open, and so hot. I have no idea what restaurant we went to, but Luis picked it, and of course it was a good one. We had Oaxacan Tamales and Tlayudas. Tlayudas are large corn tortillas with meat, beans and of course, Oaxacan cheese. They are like a for real Mexican pizza and are so delicious. After lunch we went to Catedral de Oaxaca, started around 1536. My favorite were all the little chapels in the cathedral. We hit a few more shops then it was time to go back to our place and have dinner. Our host drove us to the restaurant, where we ate our first of many moles. Oaxaca, what a special place.